BURGUS PLUS New Standard Jeans
What is the appeal of "Lot.771"?

"BURGUS PLUS" is a total brand that continues to create new, not too old, products with attention to detail, based on the concept of "ultimate basics" that can be worn in any era.

In this article, we will introduce "Lot.771," a new standard that will become a representative of the brand, by delving into details that cannot be discussed in the online store's description itself.




Lot.771 Silhouette

Standard Fit

771 Silhouette
The thighs are clean and tapered loosely from the knees to the hems, but the silhouette is not too tight, making it a modern, straight silhouette that can also be worn with boots.
771 The backside of the jeans
It has been updated to be more comfortable to wear with a relaxed waist and hips compared to the previous "Lot.770".

Denim

The fabric and dyeing have not changed from the previous model "Lot.770," but we will introduce them again.

Burgus Plus Denim for lot771
15 oz. denim made of 100% U.S. cotton, using Superior Pima cotton and San Joaquin cotton.

Superior Pima cotton is extra-long staple cotton produced only in the South American part of the U.S., with a fiber length of 35 mm, which is the result of mixing Egyptian cotton and U.S. cotton. The fiber is long and thin but strong and has little fluff.
San Joaquin cotton refers to cotton grown in California's San Joaquin Valley and is characterized by its shorter fiber length than Superior Pima, but stronger, more fluffy, and heavier, resulting in a vintage-like fabric.

These yarns are woven in low tension on an old-style power loom (shuttle loom) to create firm and beautiful denim that has both soft and bulky textures.

This denim has no shrink-proofing or anti-skew process intentionally so that you can enjoy vintage-like jeans.

Burgus Plus lot771 the surface of the denim
The fine fluff on the denim surface is unique to this fabric.

Dyeing

Dark blue denim woven with pure indigo rope-dyed yarn dyed by double-dyeing (the usual dyeing process is done twice).

By doing the dyeing process twice, the denim is dyed a deep, dark blue, and the difference in shading of the "atari (aging)" occurs when the color fades is clear.

Burgus Plus Color-Fading Sample Burgus Plus 771 Color Fading Sample
(Wear: 4 years / Washing frequency: Worn every day for the first 3 months, then washed sometimes when he cared about the dirt). ※He wears the former model, Lot770.

Details of the modern basic

These jeans, which "Burgus Plus" strongly recommends as standard jeans, are made of solid-ounce Japanese denim while incorporating vintage details. We have put a lot of attention into the details to satisfy not only customers who want cool jeans but also Hinoya customers who love and are familiar with jeans (We recommend them with confidence ourselves).

Rivets・Buttons

Concealed Rivets
Rivets punched into the back pockets are called "concealed rivets" and are not visible from the front. This was seen in vintage from the late 1930s to the late 1960s.
Rivets Burgus Plus lot 771 Top Button
Burgus Plus original rivets and buttons

Stiches

If you look closely, you can see that the stitching threads are orange and yellow.

Orange is used as the base color, and yellow is used for decorative stitches and parts. The reason for the different colors is that multiple sewing machines are used to complete a pair of jeans: one sewing machine for the crotch, another for the waist, etc. In the old days, thread colors often differed depending on the sewing machine, and there were many cases where thread colors differed depending on the part or the part to be sewn.

For Lot.771, the yellow yarn has been changed to a slightly finer count, giving it a delicate touch like vintage jeans.

Stitch work typical of vintage jeans

Only the lower part of the waistband is chain-stitched. This is a specification seen in the same period as the concealed rivets.
The buttons are punched on top of the V-shape turned back at the end of the seam, which was also a specification seen by the 1960s when sewing machines did not have a "backstitching" function to prevent the seam from fraying.

Red Selvedge

Burgus Plus 771 Red Selvedge
Red selvedge Denim. The beautiful color-aging (Atari) will be expected.
Burgus Plus 771 Coin Pocket
The coin pocket also has selvedge, a specification that was common until about the 1960s.

Thank you very much for reading this far. I myself was originally a staff member of SUN HOUSE, so I have studied jeans again. Jeans are jeans, but the specifications differ depending on age, and they are very attractive items.

This "Lot.771" is a new item from Burgus Plus, but it's an easy pair of jeans to try.
I will report on the denim's aging sometime soon. Stay tuned!

It is published in the magazine "Lightning". Please check this out.

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